My Paris Travel
The Conciergerie's towers on the Seine, the Pont Neuf beyond, under a clear sky
QUESTIONS ANSWERED AT LENGTH

The Journal

Visitor questions about Paris, answered at length: getting in from Charles de Gaulle, riding the Métro, why the arrondissements spiral, the Notre-Dame fire, a day at Versailles and the booksellers of the Seine.

Photo: Sanshiro KUBOTA from London, UK, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

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Each one a single question, answered in full

The articles

  1. 1Who is the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe?
    The Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées

    Who is the Unknown Soldier under the Arc de Triomphe?

    The story of the unidentified soldier buried beneath the Arc de Triomphe, his eternal flame, and the ceremonies still held there.

  2. 2Should you climb the Eiffel Tower's stairs or take the elevator?
    The Eiffel Tower

    Should you climb the Eiffel Tower's stairs or take the elevator?

    A practical look at climbing the Eiffel Tower's stairs versus riding its elevators to each level.

  3. 3How was the Eiffel Tower built in two years?
    The Eiffel Tower

    How was the Eiffel Tower built in two years?

    How Gustave Eiffel's engineers raised the tallest structure in the world in just over two years.

  4. 4How did Napoleon's body come back to Paris?
    Les Invalides

    How did Napoleon's body come back to Paris?

    The story of how Napoleon's remains traveled from Saint Helena to the tomb beneath the Dôme des Invalides.

  5. 5What is the story of The Thinker?
    The Musée Rodin

    What is the story of The Thinker?

    How a seated bronze made for a doorway in hell became the most recognized sculpture in Paris.

  6. 6Which paintings should you not miss at the Musée d'Orsay?
    The Musée d'Orsay

    Which paintings should you not miss at the Musée d'Orsay?

    A room-by-room guide to the paintings worth planning around at the Musée d'Orsay, from Monet to Van Gogh.

  7. 7How did a railway station become the Musée d'Orsay?
    The Musée d'Orsay

    How did a railway station become the Musée d'Orsay?

    How a Belle Époque railway terminus on the Seine became the world's great home of Impressionist painting.

  8. 8Why were the cafés of Saint-Germain the center of existentialism?
    Saint-Germain-des-Prés

    Why were the cafés of Saint-Germain the center of existentialism?

    How Les Deux Magots, the Café de Flore, and the Brasserie Lipp became the working offices of Sartre, Beauvoir, and postwar Paris.

  9. 9How do you sail a toy boat in the Luxembourg Gardens?
    The Luxembourg Gardens

    How do you sail a toy boat in the Luxembourg Gardens?

    How visitors can watch or try the model-boat tradition on the Grand Bassin of the Luxembourg Gardens.

  10. 10What did Foucault's pendulum prove in the Panthéon?
    The Panthéon

    What did Foucault's pendulum prove in the Panthéon?

    How a swinging sphere hung in the Panthéon's dome once demonstrated that the Earth itself turns.

  11. 11Who is buried in the crypt of the Panthéon?
    The Panthéon

    Who is buried in the crypt of the Panthéon?

    Voltaire, the Curies, Victor Hugo, and more: who France has chosen to bury in the Panthéon's crypt, and why.

  12. 12Where did Victor Hugo live on the Place des Vosges?
    The Place des Vosges and the Marais

    Where did Victor Hugo live on the Place des Vosges?

    Where Victor Hugo's apartment stood on the Place des Vosges, and what the house at number six holds today.

  13. 13Where did the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde come from?
    The Tuileries, the Orangerie and the Place de la Concorde

    Where did the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde come from?

    How the ancient Egyptian obelisk at the center of the Place de la Concorde came to stand in Paris.

  14. 14What happened to the Tuileries Palace?
    The Tuileries, the Orangerie and the Place de la Concorde

    What happened to the Tuileries Palace?

    How Catherine de' Medici's palace became the Tuileries Garden, and what still stands where it burned in 1871.

  15. 15Why did the glass pyramid at the Louvre cause such a fight?
    The Louvre

    Why did the glass pyramid at the Louvre cause such a fight?

    How I. M. Pei's glass pyramid divided opinion at the Louvre, and what problem it actually solved.

  16. 16How do you see the Louvre in a single day?
    The Louvre

    How do you see the Louvre in a single day?

    A practical one-day plan for choosing what to see at the world's largest museum.

  17. 17Who was held in the Conciergerie during the Revolution?
    The Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie

    Who was held in the Conciergerie during the Revolution?

    Marie Antoinette and thousands of others passed through the Conciergerie's halls before the guillotine.

  18. 18What story do the windows of the Sainte-Chapelle tell?
    The Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie

    What story do the windows of the Sainte-Chapelle tell?

    How Louis IX's palace chapel turned the Bible, and his own holy relics, into a wall of thirteenth-century colored glass.

  19. 19What is the point zero in front of Notre-Dame?
    Notre-Dame de Paris

    What is the point zero in front of Notre-Dame?

    The bronze marker set into the parvis of Notre-Dame, and why French road distances are traditionally measured from this spot.

  20. 20Who carved the gargoyles and chimeras of Notre-Dame?
    Notre-Dame de Paris

    Who carved the gargoyles and chimeras of Notre-Dame?

    Why the horned creatures on Notre-Dame's towers are not medieval, and what a true gargoyle actually does.

  21. 21How do you get from Charles de Gaulle Airport to central Paris?
    Getting Here

    How do you get from Charles de Gaulle Airport to central Paris?

    Most visitors take the RER B, which runs from the airport's two stations to the Gare du Nord, Châtelet and the Left Bank. How the terminals connect, which train to board, how to handle luggage on a commuter line, and when a taxi makes more sense.

  22. 22How do you visit Versailles from Paris?
    Day Trips

    How do you visit Versailles from Paris?

    Take the RER C to Versailles Château Rive Gauche, book a time slot for the palace, and give the rest of the day to the gardens and the Trianons. What to see inside, how the estate is laid out, and how to pace a day that most visitors underestimate.

  23. 23How does the Paris Métro work for visitors?
    Getting Around

    How does the Paris Métro work for visitors?

    Sixteen lines, 321 stations and one simple rule: follow the line's number and the name of the station at the end of it. How to read the signs, change lines, pay, and where the Métro is hard going with luggage or a wheelchair.

  24. 24What happened to Notre-Dame in the fire of 2019?
    Notre-Dame de Paris

    What happened to Notre-Dame in the fire of 2019?

    On 15 April 2019 fire destroyed the spire and the medieval oak roof of Notre-Dame; the stone vaults, the towers, the façade and the great windows survived. How the fire spread, how firefighters saved the north tower, how the roof was rebuilt in oak, and what visitors notice since the reopening in December 2024.

  25. 25Who are the booksellers along the Seine?
    The Seine

    Who are the booksellers along the Seine?

    The bouquinistes, some two hundred booksellers who keep about nine hundred green boxes on the stone parapets of the Seine. Where they are, how the trade began on the Pont Neuf, why the boxes are the color they are, and how to browse them.

  26. 26Why are the arrondissements of Paris numbered in a spiral?
    The Spiral

    Why are the arrondissements of Paris numbered in a spiral?

    Because in 1859 the wealthy residents of Passy refused to live in a new 13th arrondissement, and their mayor suggested a spiral instead. The story of the numbers, from the Revolution's twelve districts to the twenty of today, and how to use them.

Written one at a time

Next on the list

  • The Grand Palais, the Petit Palais and the Pont Alexandre IIIWhy is the Pont Alexandre III named after a Russian tsar?
  • The Palais GarnierIs there really a lake under the Paris Opera?
  • The Canal Saint-MartinHow do the locks on the Canal Saint-Martin work?
  • Sacré-Cœur and MontmartreWhy is Sacré-Cœur so white?
  • Sacré-Cœur and MontmartreWhich painters lived in Montmartre, and where?
  • Père Lachaise CemeteryHow do you find Jim Morrison's grave at Père Lachaise?
  • Père Lachaise CemeteryWhat is the Communards' Wall?
  • The SeineWhat is the oldest bridge in Paris?
  • The SeineHow high did the Seine rise in the flood of 1910?
  • The SpiralWhat are the old villages inside Paris?